Frequently Asked Questions

A&E serves all of New Hampshire south of Lincoln. Key markets include Tilton, Laconia, Gilford, Meredith, Belmont, Franklin, Northfield, Concord, Manchester, Nashua, Portsmouth, Dover, and Plymouth, plus dozens of surrounding towns. Call us at 603-455-0221 or visit our service area page to confirm we cover your town. For projects north of Lincoln, contact us — we evaluate larger projects north of that line on a case-by-case basis.

Anything & Everything Home Improvement LLC is a registered New Hampshire business, fully insured with general liability and workers' compensation coverage. New Hampshire does not issue a statewide license for general home-improvement contractors — individual trades like electrical, plumbing, and gas are licensed through the NH Office of Professional Licensure and Certification (oplc.nh.gov), and any such work on your project is performed under the proper trade license. We'll provide a certificate of insurance before any project begins — and you shouldn't hire any contractor who hesitates to do the same.

A general contractor (GC) manages the full scope of a construction project. That means pulling permits, scheduling and supervising subcontractors (electricians, plumbers, HVAC technicians), sourcing materials, coordinating inspections, and keeping the project on budget and on schedule. As the homeowner, you have one point of contact instead of managing a half-dozen separate trades. A GC is responsible for the work of every subcontractor on the project. A&E acts as your general contractor on NH residential projects — fully insured, with all licensed trade work performed under the proper NH trade licenses.

Home addition cost depends primarily on size and finish level — a small room addition, a larger addition, and a master-suite addition each carry very different budgets. One NH-specific factor: the 48-inch frost line means full-depth foundations, which add cost compared to states with shallower frost depths. We don't give phone quotes for additions — the scope varies too much to be accurate without seeing the project. A&E provides free project consultations and detailed written estimates.

New Hampshire doesn't issue a statewide license for general contractors, so the most important things to verify are insurance and track record. Ask any contractor for a current certificate of insurance showing general liability and workers' compensation coverage — not just their word. For licensed trades on your project, such as electrical, plumbing, and gas, confirm the work is done under the proper NH trade license, which you can look up at oplc.nh.gov. Check Google reviews and the BBB for completed-project history, and ask for references. A&E carries general liability and workers' compensation insurance and provides a certificate of insurance before any work begins.

Yes — kitchen and bathroom remodels are among the most common projects we manage as a GC. We handle full gut renovations: demo, framing modifications, plumbing and electrical rough-in (through licensed subs), insulation, drywall, tile, cabinetry, countertops, and finish work. We don't do partial-scope projects (just tile, just painting) — we manage the full renovation so the work is coordinated and done right. Pricing varies widely based on scope, material selections, and whether the layout changes — a written estimate after a consultation gives you an accurate number.

Kitchen remodel (full gut): 8–14 weeks from permit approval. Bathroom remodel: 4–8 weeks. Room addition: 12–20 weeks depending on foundation type and size. Whole-home renovation: 4–9 months. These timelines include permitting, which in NH typically runs 10–20 business days for standard residential permits. Lead times for materials (especially windows, cabinets, and specialty tile) can affect the schedule — we order materials early to avoid delays. We give you a project schedule with milestones at the start and update it if anything changes.

Yes. On every project we pull the required building permits with your municipality and schedule all inspections — and we're on-site for each one. On larger projects that can include electrical, plumbing, framing, insulation, and final inspections, plus a Certificate of Occupancy on additions. You don't deal with the building department; that's our job as your general contractor. We don't start demolition until permits are in hand — unpermitted work creates problems when you sell the house or file an insurance claim.

For most projects, yes — though it depends on scope. A kitchen or bathroom remodel is disruptive (you'll lose use of that room, and there's dust and noise), but most families stay in the home. Whole-home renovations or large additions sometimes warrant moving out for part of the work. We use dust barriers, protect floors and finishes, contain the work area, and clean up daily. We'll talk through what to expect at the consultation and phase the work to keep as much of your home usable as possible.

We use a milestone-based draw schedule, not a single upfront payment. Typically there's a deposit to secure the start date and order materials, then progress payments tied to completed phases — for example after framing, after mechanical rough-ins, and after drywall — with a final payment due only after the walkthrough and punch list are complete. We put the full schedule in writing in the contract, so you always know what you're paying for and when. We don't ask for large sums far ahead of the work.

Cost depends mainly on the size and pitch of your roof and the material you choose — dimensional/architectural shingles or metal roofing, with metal the bigger investment. (We don't install 3-tab shingles on replacements — dimensional is a modest step up in price and a big step up in wind resistance and lifespan.) Every A&E roof includes tear-off, ice-and-water shield, synthetic underlayment, drip edge, all flashing, and cleanup. What adds cost: steep pitch (more labor time), multiple roof planes, dormers, chimney flashing, skylights, and any deck repairs we find once the old roof is off. NH's code requires ice-and-water shield at the eaves, so that's always included — not an add-on. A&E provides free roof inspections and written estimates.

Asphalt 3-tab shingles: 15–20 years in NH — harsh winters and ice dams shorten the national average. Dimensional/architectural shingles: 25–30 years with proper ventilation and ice-and-water shield. Metal roofing: 40–70 years. The single biggest longevity factor for NH roofs is attic ventilation. A warm attic in winter accelerates snow melt, which re-freezes at the cold eaves and creates ice dams — the #1 cause of premature NH roof failure. A properly ventilated attic keeps the roof deck cold and even, extending shingle life significantly. We check attic ventilation on every roof inspection.

An ice dam forms when heat escaping through a warm attic melts snow on the roof. That meltwater runs down to the cold eaves, freezes, and backs up under the shingles — letting water work into the house. Prevention happens at two levels: insulation and ventilation. A well-insulated attic keeps heat from escaping in the first place. Proper soffit-to-ridge ventilation keeps the roof deck uniformly cold so there's no warm zone where melting starts. At the roof itself, quality ice-and-water shield at the eaves (required by NH code) provides a secondary barrier if water does back up. For roofs with chronic ice dam problems, standing-seam metal on the lower slopes is the most reliable solution.

Both. If the damage is localized — a few blown-off shingles, flashing around a chimney or pipe boot, a leak at a valley — we do repairs. We're honest about when a repair makes sense versus when the roof is close enough to end-of-life that a repair is money toward a replacement you'll need in a year or two. We won't push a full replacement if a repair is the right call, and we won't recommend a repair if the roof is failing site-wide.

For asphalt roofing, we install GAF and IKO dimensional shingles — both are well-regarded brands with strong warranty programs. For metal roofing, we install standing-seam and exposed-fastener metal systems in steel and aluminum. We don't install 3-tab asphalt shingles on new or full replacement projects — dimensional shingles are a meaningful step up in wind resistance, appearance, and longevity for a modest price difference.

Common signs: shingles that are curling, cupping, or losing granules (you'll see granules collecting in the gutters); bald spots or missing shingles; daylight or water stains in the attic; a sagging roofline; and a roof that's simply reached its age — 15–20 years for 3-tab, 25–30 for architectural shingles in NH. Recurring ice dam leaks and interior ceiling stains are also red flags. We do free roof inspections: we check the shingles, flashing, and attic ventilation and give you a straight answer on whether you need a full replacement, a repair, or just monitoring for now.

Sometimes. If the damage is from a covered sudden event — wind, hail, or a fallen tree — your homeowner's policy may cover replacement minus your deductible. Damage from age and normal wear is not covered. After a major storm, document the damage and call your insurer to start a claim. We can meet your adjuster on-site, provide a detailed estimate, and point out storm damage they might miss. We won't inflate a claim or promise to 'waive your deductible' — that's illegal in NH and a red flag with any contractor who offers it.

On full replacements we tear off the old roofing down to the deck. Shingling over an existing layer (an overlay) is cheaper upfront, but we don't recommend it: you can't inspect the deck for rot, the new shingles won't lie flat over the old, ice-and-water shield can't be installed at the eaves, and the added weight and trapped heat shorten the new roof's life. NH code also limits the number of roofing layers. A complete tear-off lets us fix any deck damage and install the roof correctly — it's the only approach we use on replacements.

For most NH homes, the choice comes down to vinyl or fiber cement (we install CertainTeed). Vinyl handles freeze-thaw well, doesn't rot, and requires almost no maintenance — good quality vinyl like CertainTeed's Cedarboards profile lasts 25–40 years in NH. Insulated vinyl adds R-value and is worth considering for homes with minimal wall insulation. Fiber cement is the premium option: it's dimensionally stable in cold weather, fire resistant, and paintable, but it costs more and needs repainting every 5–10 years. For most central NH homes, we recommend vinyl. For lake homes or historic homes where appearance matters more, fiber cement is worth the investment.

The biggest factors are the material and the size of your home. Vinyl is the more budget-friendly choice; fiber cement (CertainTeed) is the premium step up. Most NH homes have roughly 1,500–2,500 square feet of siding area, and trim, corner boards, and soffit/fascia are typically included in the job. If we find rot behind the old siding, there's additional cost to repair the sheathing — we'll tell you upfront and document it with photos before adding anything to the project. Because every home's condition and trim details differ, we don't quote siding by phone — A&E provides a free written estimate after walking the exterior with you.

Repair makes sense for isolated damage — a section that took a hit, a few warped boards after a storm. Replacement is the right call when you're seeing widespread warping or buckling, cracking across multiple walls, moisture getting in behind the boards (usually shows up as interior wall staining or higher energy bills), visible rot in more than 15–20% of the surface, or when the cosmetic condition is poor site-wide. The main risk of patching over systemic problems is moisture: once water is getting behind siding consistently, it's damaging the structure. If you're not sure, we'll come look at it and give you an honest assessment.

Quality vinyl siding — mid-grade or better — lasts 25–40 years in NH. The main threats to vinyl longevity here are impact damage (hail, ladders, branches) and UV fade, which affects lower-end products faster. Insulated vinyl tends to hold up slightly better because the foam backing prevents the panels from flexing as much during freeze-thaw cycles. CertainTeed and similar premium lines come with 50-year limited warranties. Budget vinyl from big-box stores is typically rated for 15–20 years and doesn't perform as well in cold climates.

We can install vinyl siding in winter with some precautions — vinyl becomes less flexible in very cold temperatures, so we're careful about handling and cutting. Installation is generally not recommended below 20°F. Fiber cement can be installed year-round with proper joint sealing. We schedule winter work around weather windows and won't rush a job in conditions that would compromise the installation.

It can, especially if your current siding has no insulation behind it. Insulated vinyl siding adds R-3 to R-5 of continuous exterior insulation, which reduces thermal bridging through the wall studs — a real factor in NH winters. We also install a house wrap (weather-resistive barrier) on every full siding job, which cuts air infiltration. The energy savings alone rarely pay for the siding, but if you're replacing failing siding anyway, upgrading to insulated vinyl or adding rigid foam underneath is a worthwhile improvement while the walls are open.

Yes. On every full siding replacement we strip the old siding down to the sheathing, inspect for rot and moisture damage, and install new house wrap before the new siding goes on. This is where shortcuts hurt homeowners — siding over old, failing wrap (or no wrap at all) traps moisture against the structure. If we find rotted sheathing, we document it with photos and give you the repair cost before adding it to the project. NH's freeze-thaw climate makes a proper weather barrier essential, not optional.

Yes — a siding job that leaves old, mismatched trim looks unfinished, so we handle the full exterior envelope. We replace or wrap corner boards, window and door trim, soffits, and fascia to match the new siding, typically in aluminum or PVC that won't rot. Seamless aluminum soffit and fascia also improves attic ventilation and keeps pests out. We'll walk the whole exterior with you and lay out exactly what's included in the written estimate.

Cost comes down to the material and the size and complexity of the deck. Pressure-treated pine is the budget option; composite (Trex, Fiberon, or TimberTech) costs more up front but needs far less maintenance over its life. What affects the price: railing type (cable rail and glass rail add significantly over wood rail), number of stair flights, whether the deck is ground-level or elevated, and municipal permit fees. A&E pulls all permits, and that cost is included in our estimate. We'll give you a free written estimate after seeing the site.

Yes, in most NH municipalities you need a permit for a deck that is attached to the house or over 200 square feet — though the exact threshold varies by town. A&E handles all permitting as part of every deck project. We don't build without permits. Unpermitted decks can create problems when you sell the house and may not be covered if something goes wrong with your homeowner's insurance. The permit process also protects you — the building inspector verifies that the footings, framing, and railing are built to code.

For most NH homeowners, composite decking is the better long-term choice. NH's freeze-thaw cycles are hard on wood — pressure-treated pine expands and contracts with moisture and temperature changes, which can lead to warping and checking over time. It also needs annual cleaning and resealing to hold up. Composite decking (Trex, Fiberon, TimberTech) doesn't rot, splinter, or warp, and requires almost no maintenance beyond occasional washing. The tradeoff is higher upfront cost. Pressure-treated pine is still a solid, affordable choice — we build plenty of them. If you're near a lake or have heavy snow loads, composite holds up better over a 20-year horizon.

A straightforward deck — one level, no stairs, standard railing — typically takes 3–7 days of build time once the permit is in hand. Permit turnaround varies by municipality but is usually 5–15 business days. More complex projects with multiple levels, stairs, custom railings, or integrated features take longer. We give you a timeline with the estimate and keep you updated if anything changes during the build.

We can frame and install composite decking in winter — composite doesn't have the same cold-temperature installation restrictions as some materials. Concrete footings require temperatures above freezing and proper curing time, which we manage with thermal blankets and scheduling around hard freezes. We build year-round in NH; winter scheduling often means shorter lead times. If you want your deck ready for Memorial Day, starting in February or March is the right call.

It depends on the material. Pressure-treated pine needs annual attention — cleaning and resealing or staining every 1–2 years to prevent the checking, graying, and warping that NH's freeze-thaw cycles cause. Composite decking (Trex, Fiberon, TimberTech) needs almost nothing: an occasional wash with soap and water to remove pollen and dirt — no sanding, sealing, or staining. That low maintenance is the main reason most of our customers choose composite despite the higher upfront cost; over a 20-year life it usually comes out ahead.

We install pressure-treated and composite wood railing, aluminum railing, cable rail, and glass-panel rail. Wood and composite are the most economical and match the deck. Aluminum is low-maintenance and slim. Cable and glass preserve views — popular for lake-view and elevated decks — but cost noticeably more. All railing we build meets NH code: 36-inch minimum height for residential decks and baluster spacing that won't pass a 4-inch sphere. We'll show you the options and pricing at the design consultation.

Yes. Sloped and uneven sites are common in NH, and they're handled with proper footing depth and post heights — elevated decks, multi-level decks, and stairs that step down the grade. The key is getting the footings below the 48-inch frost line and sized for the load, which we do on every build. A sloped lot can add cost (taller posts, more framing, longer stair runs), but it's no obstacle. We'll assess the grade at the site visit and design the deck around it.

Cost depends on size (single vs. two-car, detached vs. attached), finish level, and foundation type — NH's 48-inch frost line means a full frost-depth foundation costs more than a slab. Other factors that move the price: insulation and drywall, an electrical sub-panel, roof complexity, garage-door selection (insulated doors cost more), and whether you're matching custom trim or siding on an older home. A&E includes permitting in our estimate. We don't do phone quotes for garage builds — the variables are too significant. Free on-site estimate.

Yes — all garage construction in NH requires a building permit, regardless of size. An attached garage may also require a soil evaluation and site plan review in some municipalities. A&E manages all permits and inspections — you don't need to deal with the building department. One practical note: adding an attached garage affects your homeowner's insurance (it increases the insured structure value), so notify your insurer before or immediately after the project is complete.

Attached garages are more convenient — direct entry to the house, share a wall for insulation efficiency, and typically easier to heat. They're the right choice when the lot layout supports it and local zoning allows. Detached garages are useful when the house layout doesn't accommodate an attached structure, when you want a workshop or storage space separate from the living area, or when setback requirements make an attached build impossible. In NH, detached garages are also common on rural lots where the driveway approach makes a separate structure more practical. We'll look at your lot, your existing structure, and your goals and give you an honest recommendation.

Yes. Carriage house-style garages with a finished room, studio, or apartment above are projects we take on. Living space above a garage requires a full frost-depth foundation, engineered floor joists, and compliance with NH residential code for habitable space (insulation, egress windows, ceiling height). These projects are priced separately from standard garage builds — the structural and mechanical requirements are more complex. Contact us for a consultation if that's what you're considering.

A straightforward single or two-car detached garage typically takes 4–8 weeks of construction time once the permit is in hand. Permit approval in NH runs 10–20 business days for standard residential projects. Add time for foundation curing (5–7 days minimum before framing), electrical inspection scheduling, and any custom finish work. Plan on 8–14 weeks from permit application to a finished, usable garage for most projects. Attached garages and garages with living space above take longer.

Yes — that's the difference between a garage that looks original and one that looks bolted on. We match the roof shingles or metal, the siding profile and color, the trim, and the window and door styles to your existing house as closely as current products allow. On older homes where exact materials are discontinued, we get as close as possible and make the transitions look intentional. Matching is part of our standard scope, not an upcharge afterthought.

If you'll use the garage as a workshop, gym, or year-round space, yes — insulation makes a big difference in NH winters and is far cheaper to install during construction than to retrofit later. We can insulate the walls and ceiling, drywall it, and rough in electrical for a heater or mini-split. Even unheated, an insulated and sealed garage stays well above outdoor temperatures and protects vehicles and stored items. If it's purely for parking and storage, an uninsulated garage is fine — we'll build in whatever level you want from the start.

Rough guidelines: a single-car garage is typically 12–14 ft wide by 20–24 ft deep; a two-car is 22–24 ft wide by 24 ft deep; a three-car runs 32–36 ft wide. Go deeper than the minimum if you want storage, a workbench, or room to walk around the vehicles — most people wish they'd built bigger. Lot size, setback requirements, and budget set the practical limits. We'll look at your lot and how you plan to use the space, recommend dimensions that work, and confirm what local zoning allows.

In the traditional model, you hire an architect to produce drawings, then take those drawings out for bid to contractors. The architect and contractor are separate businesses with separate contracts — when problems come up (and they always do), there's inherent tension about who's responsible. In design-build, one firm handles both design and construction under a single contract. The benefits: the design is informed by real construction costs from the start (so the final bid matches the design budget), there's a single point of accountability for both design errors and construction errors, and the design and permitting process can overlap with early construction work to compress the timeline. It's particularly well-suited for whole-home renovations, major additions, and projects where the scope evolves as the design develops.

Design-build projects vary widely with scope — a focused room addition and a whole-home renovation sit at very different points. The design-build fee (design, planning, and project management) is typically a percentage of construction cost. The advantage of design-build pricing is that you get a real cost confirmation before the construction contract is signed — not post-design sticker shock. NH's labor and material costs tend to run above national averages. A&E provides a free initial consultation before any design fees are discussed.

Design-build makes the most sense for projects where the design and construction are tightly interdependent — whole-home renovations, home additions that affect the main structure, ADUs or carriage house builds, and projects where the homeowner isn't sure exactly what's possible within their budget. For straightforward projects with clearly defined scope (a kitchen remodel with no structural changes, a deck build), traditional general contracting is often simpler and more cost-effective. We'll tell you honestly at the initial consultation which approach makes sense for your project.

Contact A&E through the form below or call us directly. Design-build consultations are free and take about an hour at your home. We come to look at the existing structure, understand what you're trying to accomplish, and have an honest conversation about budget and scope before any design work begins. There's no commitment or fee for the initial consultation.

We work with established design partners — architects and designers — and bring them onto the team under one contract with you. Because the designer and builder are coordinated from day one, the drawings are developed around what's actually constructible and what it actually costs in NH, instead of an idealized design that blows the budget when it goes out for bid. You get professional design without managing a separate architect relationship or refereeing disputes between designer and contractor.

Yes, though changes mid-construction cost more and can affect the schedule — that's true with any builder. The advantage of design-build is that a change request goes to one team that already understands the whole project, not a back-and-forth between a separate architect and contractor. We handle changes through written change orders, so the cost and schedule impact are clear and approved before we proceed. The more decisions we settle during the design phase, the smoother and cheaper the build.

For most design-build projects, design development takes 4–10 weeks depending on complexity and how quickly decisions get made — floor plans, specifications, and selections like cabinets, fixtures, and finishes. Permitting in NH typically runs 10–20 business days and can overlap with finalizing selections. Whole-home projects that need structural engineering take longer on the front end. Time invested in design pays off: a thoroughly designed project runs faster and with fewer surprises once construction starts.

The initial consultation is always free. Beyond that, design-build typically involves a design agreement covering the planning, drawings, and cost development before you commit to the construction contract — so the design work is funded, but you're not locked into the full build until you've seen real numbers. The design fee is usually credited toward or rolled into the overall project cost. We're transparent about this structure at the consultation, before any fees are discussed — no surprise invoices.